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It had not been our original intention to spend our Saturday afternoon at Ni Neu. Having been disappointed by the highly rated Bodegon Alejandro being shut during our visit, we were grateful for a bit of divine intervention as we crossed the bridge from the Old Town into the district of Gros. Blown back by the strong winds and horizontal rain, we took cover within the Kursaal auditorium and convention centre where Ni Neu is housed. Waiting for the weather to subside slightly, the xortak taster menu caught the eye and we entered the sleek, modern dining room, which was quiet when we arrived at the very British time of 1pm, but which was full fairly soon after.
If there was a relative disappointment, it came with the opening course. There was nothing intrinsically wrong with the salmon, salad and croutons (and my suspicion over the bacon cream was unfounded, as it was the best part of the dish), rather as well as the ingredients combined, there was just little exciting or memorable about it.
The tomato was superb, soft and juicy with a generous helping of squid within. It was however Andrew Ridgeley when compared to the George Michael - spot an analogy I wish I'd not started - squid ink rice; deep, rich and garlicky. Sublime.
The hake that followed was delicate and well seasoned and, when combined with the gentle fish flavour of the jus and potato (more pureed than crushed), provided a welcome milder note after the strength of the preceding course.
The lamb was the second main highlight of the meal, capable of withstanding no more than a butter knife before melting and given depth by the garlic paste and texture by the quinoa.
Beginning to fill slightly, it was with mixed emotions that I viewed the mini brick-sized slab of french toast as it arrived before me. My fears were unfounded though and there was nothing stodgy about the surprisingly light and airy toast, that had a pleasing crunchy finish.
As light as the previous plate had been, the palate-cleansing final ice cream was pleasingly minimalist and retained the nice crunch of the toast with a combination of different nuts within the crumble. The coffee leaf was an unwelcome accompaniment but I have never liked coffee and never will, and that is no-one's fault but my own.
Much of San Sebastian's well deserved gastronomic reputation comes with a bill to match but at roughly €42 a head, including a very decent bottle of white wine, this provided firm evidence that accessing some of the areas' most inventive cookery needn't necessarily lead to Arzak or Akelarre prices.
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