Genius - No5

Of all France’s many great artists of the twentieth century, few people’s work appear to be as frequently visible through postcards and posters as that of the photographer Robert Doisneau. The evident commercial appeal of his work does not detract from its quality though. Along with the likes of Willy Ronis and Edouard Boubat, his perfect captured representations of the varied minutiae of life in Paris in the 1940’s and 1950’s evoke a sense of warmth at an apparent simplicity of life – especially amongst generations of children making their own entertainment - as well as displaying the broad, varied character and elegance of the city’s streets and buildings. Particularly depressing are suggestions that this style of photography is being made increasingly more difficult by the largely hysterical and unfounded concerns surrounding the principle of taking photos of the young. From a personal point of view, Doisneau’s success however lies in the fact that it is his work that is brought instantly to my mind whenever there is a mention of mid twentieth century life in Paris.

Le Manege de Monsieur Barre (1955)



La Baguette Parisienne (1953)



L'Enfer (1952)



Rue Marcellin Berthelot, Choisy le Roi (1945)



Bolides (1956)

Viva Brazil

36 Castle Street
L2 0NR
website



Set in a beautiful building on Castle Street and with the capacity for 160 covers, Viva Brazil was somewhere I'd wanted to go since its recent opening, having greatly enjoyed the concept of rodizio - Brazilian barbeque with table service - at Rodizio Rico in London. After a quick Sagres in the small but perfectly formed bar area, we shown to our table and ordered what transpired to be a superb bottle of Tarquino 2009 Malbec from Mendoza.



The principal of rodizio is simple. Meat carvers or passadors patrol round the restauarnt with any one of fifteen different meats on skewers, cooked on a charcoal barbeque. Provided with a coaster on arrival, one side green with "yes please" written on it and other red with "no thanks", you simply display the green side and summon a passador when you see something you like. He expertly carves pieces until you tell him to stop.



A self service salad bar with a variety of side dishes is available, and among these was a smooth garlic mash and a superb celeriac salad with capers. The undeniable star of the show though is the meat. In the interests of research I managed to sample thirteen of the fifteen meats. Particular highlights were the Picanha com alho (garlic cap of rump), Cordeiro (leg of lamb), Frango com bacon (chicken wrapped in smoked bacon) and Contra filet (sirloin), but there was nothing that disappointed. Given the array and variety of meats available, the idea of pudding was never seriously on the cards and at £22.95 per person (£12.50 at lunch), the rodizio provides excellent value. All in all this is another excellent addition to the increasing number of top quality city centre eateries

Gourmet evening at Lunya

On an interminable day of what seemed like perpetual dark and rain, the prospect of Lunya’s Gourmet evening was a pleasing diversion. Having eaten at the restaurant twice before I was confident that the six course ‘posh peasant food’ Catalan menu, with a paired wine for each dish, would not disappoint and I’m sure the fourteen or so of us attending would confirm it did not.

The meal started with a Lunya Bikini, a traditional toasted sandwich using Joselito ham and Torta de Baros cheese. While the bread was possibly a bit hard for my liking, both the ham and cheese, which was definitely worthy of further investigation, were of superb quality.



The second course was the dish that beforehand I had been most ambivalent about. I had tasted and enjoyed the restaurant’s salt cod cigars on a previous visit, but was not sure if the strong flavour of the fish would work in the Esqueixada (salt cod salad) we were presented with. My fears proved unfounded, as the cod was a pleasant, unobtrusive background flavour in what was a very elegant and fresh salad, the real standout element of which were the superb empeltre olives scattered through it.



Following the salad was what was described as the ‘definitive Spanish fry up’, a migas. This Catalan take contained chorizo, morcilla and a fried quail’s egg. With those constituent parts there was never much chance of me not enjoying it, and sure enough it ticked all my boxes, particularly the morcilla which had the texture and consistency of haggis and a lovely understated smoky flavour that combined well with the mild kick provided by the chorizo.



This combination was also used to good effect in what was my highlight of the meal, the Catalan scouse. Having sampled a teaspoon of this at the Sefton Park Food Festival and waited patiently(ish) for it to appear on the daily menu – I’m assured this will happen soon – I was delighted to see this on the running order and would quite happily have had second and third portions. The addition of a fig, which I had initially been sceptical about, introduced a lovely sweetness that gave the whole course a lift.



The penultimate dish was the only minor disappointment. The combination of lentils and bacon is one I generally enjoy and while there was nothing wildly wrong with what was served, it was slightly underseasoned and watery for me. That said, the treacle cured bacon was very tasty and further evidence of a commitment to excellent ingredients.



Dessert was a pleasingly light ‘Catalan Mess’, as with the scouse enhanced by the presence of fig and with a lovely almond flavour running through it.

For a wine novice it was nice to have the choices explained in an unfussy, concise and clear way by Ian Clarke, and his selections were excellent, particularly the Segrel Ambar Albarino that accompanied the Esqueixada and the utterly lovely Vallemayor Gran Reserva, paired with the lentils, which was comfortably my favourite glass of the evening. It also would be remiss not to mention our food guide, whose name I’m sure was Enrique (damn my feeble memory), who was enthusiastic, knowledgeable and friendly.

Overall it was a very informal, relaxed and enjoyable evening that hopefully, going by what was said on the evening, will become a regular fixture with the emphasis on a different area in Spain on each occasion.

5 great Rolling Stones cover versions

Although often derided, I personally enjoy a good cover version. Unless it's Louise Nurding's 'Stuck in the Middle With You. Or Scouting for Girls' 'Common People'. Or Scouting for Girls' 'Don't Stop Believing'. Or Scou... Well, you get the picture. With a back catalogue as massive as Vernon Kaye's lack of self awareness, the Stones have always been ripe for a cover version. These five are particularly good; two underground soul icons, one overground soul icon (accompanied by abusive husband), one man everyone thinks they can impersonate and a forgotten-but-still-going-and-actually-they-were-quite-good British act of the early 2000's.

Merry Clayton - Gimme Shelter



Thelma Houston - Jumpin' Jack Flash




David Bowie - Let's Spend the Night Together



Ike & Tina Turner - Honky Tonk Woman



Turin Brakes - Moonlight Mile

Random great Everton goals #5

Manuel Fernandes – Everton v Manchester United
Goodison, April 28th, 2007

Of all David Moyes’ acquisitions since his appointment as manager, only the talents of maybe Marouane Fellaini (initially) and Diniyar Bilyaletdinov have divided Evertonians to the extent that Manuel Fernandes did during his two loan spells at the club. To his advocates he was a skilful, creative force who, having arrived at a young age, would only improve. To his detractors he was a luxury item who too often refused to marry his talent with the industry of a Pienaar or Arteta. Whatever the truth, his slightly nomadic career to date tends to suggest that he is a player needing to settle down somewhere and play regularly in order to fulfil his potential. One glimpse of his undeniable ability came in this emotional game, the first to follow the untimely death of Alan Ball. Unfortunately for the Blues, although it was a strike deserving to win any game it merely paved the way for Everton to turn a 2-0 lead into a 2-4 defeat and for Iain Turner (horribly culpable for United’s first goal) to do irreparable damage to his Goodison career.

Random great Everton goals #4

Graeme Sharp - Sheffield Wednesday v Everton
Hillsborough, January 27th 1988

In a week when current striking options seem to diminish by the day; Saha and Anichebe lost to injury, Vaughan out on loan and Yakubu missing believed hungry, it seems appropriate to use another Graeme Sharp effort as reminder of what a consistent Everton goalscorer looks like. This gloriously subtle effort came in the third replay (that’s right kids, in the days before figure congestion was invented) of an FA Cup tie, all three previous ties having finished 1-1, the first two replays also going to extra time. The Blues clearly had got bored of the sight of the Owls and were 5-0 up at half time, winning by the same scoreline. This was goal number three.

L’Ambassade d’Auvergne

22 rue de Grenier St-Lazare, 3rd Arrondissement, Paris
website

Arriving after a day’s cultural nourishment at the beautifully tranquil Musee Rodin, I had been looking forward, having read reviews, to a hearty meal at this celebration of central French Auvergne cooking in the Le Marais district. First impressions were positive, the interior was cosy with exposed wooden beams and a warm welcome from the maitre d’.











On studying the menu I quickly decided, as did Catherine, to start with the generally recommended warm puy lentils, cooked in goose fat and served with bacon. These came in a large bowl with the emphasis that we should help ourselves.



Although not the most appealing-looking of dishes, it was beautifully executed and very comforting. This comforting, homely theme continued with the main course. Again there was harmony in our selection, both of us choosing the magret de canard served with aligot, cheesy whipped mashed potatoes, which our waiter was able to stretch on a spoon from the pan like mozzarella.



The duck was nicely pink and the creaminess of the potato compensated for the lack of a sauce. Although filling nicely, the reputation of the restaurant’s chocolate mousse encouraged Catherine to order it for dessert, while in the interests of diversity I elected to try the blueberry tart with ice cream.



The tart was delicate, full of flavour and a nice light way to finish a meal. ‘Light’ would be the last word used to describe the mousse which, as with the starter, was left on the table in a huge serving dish, with instruction to Catherine to take as much as she wanted. Rich and moreish, it was the sort of dish that Masterchef’s Greg Wallace would no doubt declare his interest in burying his jowly face into. Overall what the food lacked in elegance it more than made up for in rustic charm. A bit of stodge is sometimes no bad thing…